Quick answer
No, not every dog needs boots. They are most useful on surfaces that can hurt paws: hot pavement or sand, icy sidewalks treated with salt, and rough or rocky ground. For many dogs on a normal walk, simpler steps work first, such as walking at cooler times, rinsing paws after walks and trimming the hair between the pads. If you do buy boots, measure the widest part of the paw, choose a style that matches the surface, and let your dog get used to them indoors first.
Dog boots, also called dog shoes or booties, look like a fashion extra, but they exist to solve a real problem: your dog walks barefoot on whatever you do. This guide explains when boots genuinely help, what to try before you buy, which features matter and how to measure and introduce them, using guidance from the American Kennel Club and veterinarians at Cornell University.
When boots actually help
The American Kennel Club offers a simple rule of thumb: if you would not walk barefoot on a surface, such as a scalding or freezing sidewalk, your dog should not either. Here is how that plays out in common situations.
| Situation | Do boots help? | What the sources say |
|---|---|---|
| Hot pavement, sand or artificial turf | Yes, or change the walk | The AKC says dog shoes or all-terrain boots protect paws from hot surfaces. Walking early or late, or on grass and shade, also helps. |
| Icy sidewalks treated with salt | Often, especially for longer outings | Cornell veterinarian Brian Collins says dogs in areas where salt is used may need boots, or to have their feet washed when they come indoors. |
| Rocky trails and rough terrain | Yes, choose a grippy sole | The AKC says boots with traction can protect against punctures and reduce the risk of severed nails on uneven ground. |
| Short walks on mild days, on grass or clean paths | Often not needed | The AKC says the best boot depends on your goals and your area’s weather and terrain. If the surface is not a problem, boots may not be either. |
| Sore, cracked or injured pads | Ask your vet first | Injured paws need a vet’s advice, not just a boot. See our dog paw care guide. |
Try these simpler steps first
Boots are one tool, not the only one. Before you spend money, consider the options that vets and the AKC also recommend.
- Do the hand test. AKC chief veterinarian Dr. Jerry Klein suggests placing your hand on the pavement for ten seconds. If it is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for your dog’s paws. The same test works on sand, metal and concrete.
- Know the numbers. Dr. Klein says that at 85°F or above, without a chance for the pavement to cool down, the ground may be too hot for safely walking a dog. The AKC also cites data that when the air temperature is 86°F, asphalt can reach 135°F.
- Choose your timing and surface. The AKC advises walking in the early morning or evening and choosing grassy or shady areas.
- Condition paws gradually. Dr. Klein notes that the first long walk of a warm season can cause blisters. Walking on pavement in cool weather helps toughen the pads for hotter days.
- Wipe and balm after walks. Cornell’s Dr. Lauri-Jo Gamble suggests applying paw balm before each walk, wiping the paws with a lukewarm washcloth afterward and applying another layer of balm if your dog is not wearing boots.
- Trim the hair between the pads. Cornell experts suggest shortening the hair between the paw pads to help prevent ice balls, and checking longer-haired dogs regularly for ice and snow collecting on their feet.
Summer: hot pavement and sand
Hot surfaces can cause discomfort, blisters and burns, according to Dr. Klein, and he warns that puppies with sensitive young paws are especially at risk. Hot pavement can also raise a dog’s body temperature and contribute to heatstroke, so boots are never a replacement for shade, water and common sense. Small and short-legged dogs are particularly susceptible to overheating because their bodies absorb heat closer to the hot ground, and flat-faced breeds heat up faster too. See our guide to keeping your dog cool in hot weather for warning signs.
For sidewalks, the AKC suggests lightweight boots that conform to the shape of the foot, and boots with mesh so the foot can “breathe.” It also advises choosing foot coverings with wrap-around closures and full-foot grips on the bottom, and avoiding products that stick to the pads. The fit should be snug, but not too tight and not too loose.
Winter: ice, salt and cold
Cornell’s veterinarians warn that salt and most deicers can be toxic to dogs, and they advise keeping your dog away from roads and sidewalks that are heavily treated. They also say small and short-haired dogs may need a coat for short walks in cold, windy weather and boots for longer time outside. A dog that keeps picking up its feet or seems reluctant to walk may be telling you it is too cold. For temperature guidance, see how cold is too cold for dogs, and for coats see our dog winter coat buying guide.
If your dog will not wear boots, Cornell’s advice is to wash the paws when you come inside and to wipe them with a lukewarm washcloth. The AKC also notes that dogs can get frostbite when temperatures drop below 32°F, which is why some winter boots are insulated.
Features to look for
The AKC says there is no one-size-fits-all boot, and that different boots suit different activities. A rain boot may not offer the traction of a hiking boot, and the reverse.
| Feature | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Velcro straps | Quick to fasten and help the boot fit snugly. |
| Anti-slip soles with grooves | Better traction on rocks, rough ground and slick sidewalks. |
| Water-resistant material that does not trap water | The AKC notes that excess moisture between the toe pads can increase the chance of yeast infections. |
| Breathable mesh (for summer) | The AKC says breathable boots help prevent cracked pads, flakiness and bacterial buildup. |
| Insulation (for deep cold) | Lined boots help protect against cold-related problems on freezing days. |
| Reflective strips | Helps drivers see you and your dog when you walk in the dark. |
| Disposable rubber covers | The AKC mentions biodegradable one-use coverings for dogs that only need occasional protection. |
How to measure your dog’s paws
- Put a piece of paper on the floor and press your dog’s paw onto it so it splays the way it does when walking.
- Trace the paw with a pen or pencil.
- Draw a line across the widest part of the tracing and measure it.
- Compare that number with the maker’s size chart, because sizes differ between brands.
This is the method the AKC describes. It also advises a “test run” indoors after you buy: check whether the paws stay in the boots or slip out, whether the sole gives enough traction and whether the boot follows the natural shape of the foot. If the paw does not fit securely, you may need a different size.
How to get your dog used to boots
Some dogs accept boots right away and others resist. The AKC recommends positive reinforcement and patience:
- Let your dog sniff and explore the boots, and reward with praise and high-value treats.
- Start with one boot, then add the others once your dog is comfortable.
- Have your dog wear the boots indoors for short periods, increasing the time with each session.
- Watch for signs of discomfort or stress and adjust or stop if needed.
Do not be discouraged if your dog does not take to boots straight away. The familiarization process takes time. For general paw and nail care, see our guide on how to trim your dog’s nails at home.
Video: how to get a dog to wear booties
If you would like to see the process, TeleTails Online Pet Care has a short video, “How To Get Your Dog To Wear Booties,” that covers whether dogs need booties and how to train a dog to accept having them put on. Use it alongside the steps above, not instead of them.
Video: TeleTails Online Pet Care on YouTube, published February 22, 2024. PetBoo has no affiliation with the channel.
Quick self-check
Tap each question to reveal the answer. This is a simple learning aid.
1. How can you tell if pavement is too hot for paws?
Place your hand on it for ten seconds. If it is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for your dog.
2. Which part of the paw do you measure for boot size?
The widest part of the paw tracing, then compare with the maker’s size chart.
3. What should you do on the first day with new boots?
Introduce them indoors with treats, start with one boot and keep sessions short.
Frequently asked questions
Do dogs need boots in winter?
Not always. Cornell veterinarians say dogs may need boots if they are outside for longer periods, especially where salt is used on ice. If your dog does not wear boots, wash and wipe the paws after the walk and consider a paw balm.
Do puppies need boots for hot pavement?
The AKC warns that scorching surfaces are especially damaging to puppies’ sensitive young paws. Avoid hot ground, and ask your vet before using boots on a growing puppy.
Are boots better than paw balm?
They do different jobs. Boots put a barrier between the paw and the surface. Balm helps keep pads from drying and cracking. Cornell’s Dr. Gamble suggests balm before a walk and again afterward when a dog is not wearing boots.
How tight should dog boots be?
The AKC says snug, but not too tight and not too loose, with room for the foot to breathe.
When should I see a vet about my dog’s paws?
If you see deep or bleeding cracks, limping, swelling, constant licking or a stuck object, call your vet. Our dog paw care guide explains what is minor and what is not.
Sources and further reading
- American Kennel Club: Best Dog Boots for Any Weather
- American Kennel Club: How Hot Is Too Hot for a Dog’s Paws? (includes comments from Dr. Jerry Klein, AKC chief veterinarian)
- Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine: Keeping your furry friends safe during winter weather (comments from Brian Collins, DVM, and Dr. Lauri-Jo Gamble)
General educational information, not veterinary advice. Ask your vet about any paw injury or condition. Featured photo: Aleksandr Kadykov on Unsplash (Unsplash License).